The Kainji Dam
There is nothing quite like Nigeria. Especially, there is nothing like the Nigerian people, and particularly where I lived, which is in southern Nigeria, often called as south of the river. That is the Niger River and its sister, the Benue River.
I love them because they love life and they love people. They are simply good and beautiful people, although, if you don't understand them, it can cause misunderstandings, and if there is something that is characteristic of Oyinbo, the Peeled People in Yoruba, then it is one hundred percent that they do not understand Africans in general and Nigerians in particular.
Nigeria is located in West Africa and is widely believed as the most populous country on the continent. Maybe. Maybe not. Who knows? Its population is estimated to be over 200 million people. Or 150 million. Or more. Or less.
No one truly knows how many people live in Nigeria. Obviously, no one knows how many people die in Nigeria, let alone, no one knows the causes of deaths in Nigeria. No one, except, of course, several international organizations that provide information. Or misinformation.
They say that roughly 50% of the Nigerians are Muslims, and around 50% are Christians and about 90% worship colorful mix of traditional spirits, pagan deities, and various forms of Juju. The rest of them believe in dollars.
Clearly, most are deeply religious. Some hold more than one religion. For example, some can be both Muslim and Christian. Just to be on the safe side. They don't take chances. They are not suckers.
Nigeria is home to hundreds of ethnic groups or tribes speaking nearly 300 different languages and dialects. Most of them chatter in a broken English called Pidgin English, which is a communication system made of a hybrid of several languages, hand gestures, and all kinds of meaningful sounds and expressions. One thing for sure: They manage to understand each other. Or not.
Nigeria is divided into 36 states, plus one territory around Abuja, the Capital of Nigeria.
Modern Nigeria owes its current borders to a group of European Oyinbos who gathered at the Berlin Conference around 1884. In that conference, Nigeria was given to the British, and boarders were drawn without any sense, no cultural understanding, or consideration of the people who live on that land. Anyway, who in Europe is interested in or cares of what the beautiful people of Nigeria want, and if there are even people in Nigeria, or just "tribes."
The Niger River is the third longest in Africa and ranks 13th in the world. Along its paths, the Niger together with its sister the Benue rivers are the primary source of life and transportation for all Nigerians. The Kainji Dam is a massive structure built by Italians across the Niger River in Niger State, Nigeria. The dam created a lake spreading 135 kilometers long and 30 kilometers wide.
The communities around the lake are mostly delighted. The artificial lake supports irrigation, farming, and fishing. Occasionally, and quite miraculously, it even produces electricity—much to the astonishment of the local residents.
When I visited, however, the dam was not generating electricity. Something happened there. We were accompanied by a young, educated Nupe's dude named Balukuku, meaning “the keeper of the pigeons.”
He tells the following story, which is very interesting, even if only parts actually happened. He takes a long and exhausting story and makes it a bit longer, and more exhausting.
The Nupe (traditionally called the Nupawa by the Hausas and Tapa by the neighboring Yoruba) are a Muslim ethnic group of about five million, native to the Nigeria's Middle Belt. They are the dominant ethnicity in Niger State, one of the 36 states of Nigeria.
Though the Kainji Dam is situated in Nupe territory, the area surrounding the lake is home to a vibrant mosaic of other peoples: such as the Lopa, Tsikimba, Tsishingini, Tsuvadi, and Cishingini. Together, they form a colorful cultural tapestry—and all of them benefit from the lake that the Italians designed and built.
The Italians constructed the dam many years ago and continued to operate it afterward. The Nigerian government figured that was best, reasoning—perhaps wisely—that if the Italians didn't run it, one of two things would happen: either there might not be electricity… or there definitely wouldn’t be electricity.
So, the Italians built the dam years ago and then managed it because the Nigerian government thought it would be better for the Italians to operate it because, otherwise, one of two possibilities would have happened. Either it is not certain that there would be electricity, or it is certain that there would not be electricity.
The most senior Nigerian manager on site, on behalf of the Federal Ministry of Energy, is Eng. Idogbo, an outstanding Yoruba engineer from Ibadan. He has worked with the Italians for six years. Eng. Idogbo is wandering around the site as the Chief of the dam, cooks up plans to take over the dam's management from the Italians.
Eng. Idogbo is confident that the Italians are no longer required to operate the dam. As a Nigerian engineer, he is capable and even better equipped to manage the dam. Eng. Idogbo asks, "Are the Italians the only people who can manage this Kainji Dam?"
Balukuku agrees that the Italians are not the only people who can successfully manage the dam, but he is convinced that Eng. Idogbo is nothing but "Shakara" (thinks of himself) and is grossly incapable of managing this dam, or any dam, or anything.
Mr. Balukuku is an experienced mechanical engineer in the water sector with impressive communication capabilities. He is about 180 centimeters tall and can communicate successfully with a wide range of people around the Kainji Lake and even with Yoruba people. He is in control of a good English and carefully chooses his words.
He suspects that Eng. Idogbo is cooking something up with the Honorable Minister of Power of the Federation, who is responsible for the dam. His office is in Abuja.
At the same time, Balukuku is a Nupe man, which might make some people believe he likes to complain. Some people believe that the Nupe people like to complain, as a matter of a popular habit, especially when they have nothing else to do.
In fact, they try to complain about anything, such as the weather, the condition of their cars, their wives, or even that they don't have enough money. Especially that they don't have enough money. I personally know some Nupe people who have complained on one occasion or another about money, just like everyone else on this planet. Including Eng. Idogbo.
Eng. Idogbo approaches the Honorable Minister of Power, also a Yoruba from Ibadan, and they speak Yoruba between them, which is common practice among Yoruba people. However, Balukuku can't understand a word. Anyway, Eng. Idogbo persuaded the Honorable Minister to come to the dam to see the situation for himself. In such a visit, Eng. Idogbo will demonstrate his professional capabilities to the Honorable Minister and show the Honorable Minister that anything the Italians can do, he can do better. And anyway, practically he, Idogbo, is the one that does all the work on-site. That is at least what Idogbo tells himself and anyone who is willing to listen.
Eng. Idogbo tells the Honorable Minister how he can master the control panels, same as the Honorable Minister's secretary can operate the typewriter blindly and efficiently without even looking at the keys and buttons. This kind of statement might not impress any readers, but it has strong meaning for the Honorable Minister. If Idogbo can manage the control panels without looking at the buttons, then he might have support from the Juju, and the Honorable Minister would not dare disrespect the Juju. So, after some nudges here and there, the Honorable Minister decided to undertake a personal visit to the Kainji dam.
The Honorable Minister's visit to the Kainji Dam is an unusual and historic event of biblical proportions. Eng. Idogbo and the Honorable Minister's team make sure that all the dignitaries from the surrounding areas, as well as all the traditional rulers and chiefs, are there to welcome the Honorable Minister upon his arrival. Thousands, perhaps more, of the local residents gather on the fence around the ceremony area, to observe the phenomenon. They have never seen anything like it.
The ceremony area is a dusty piece of land, and the place is scorching and tropical. A large tent was erected on that site, and carpets were placed on the tent’s ground, providing the place with the flavor and ambiance of a king's palace. At least so everyone imagines.
There are about twenty big ventilators on the tent’s sides, providing airflow since this area is sweltering and humid. Huge speakers play drums and songs at a deafening volume. The ceremony is very impressive and colorful, including dancers, drums, and bands that play traditional songs typical to this region.
All are waiting more than three hours in the sun for the Honorable Minister’s arrival. Most ministers usually ensure that as many people as possible wait for them and for as much time as possible. The more they wait, the more important the Honorable Minister appears, giving the Honorable Minister a sense of satisfaction. That is the system.
The dust clouds suggest the Honorable Minister's entourage is approaching the site. The excitement is growing and has reached its peak. The Honorable Minster's entourage consists of 74 vehicles, most colored black, with tinted windows. If anyone will bothers checking, he might find out that there is only a driver in those vehicles, and even that is doubtful. The reason for the entourage's size is simply related to the status of the honorable minister.
A federal minister, such as the Honorable Minister of Power, cannot afford himself to arrive at such a ceremony with three vehicles because it is insulting and conveys disrespect, even though there is no need for more than one vehicle accompanied by a security vehicle. If this explanation is not enough to convince you and establish the rationale behind such a long convoy, imagine what the honorable minister must go through. Just a week earlier, the Federal Minister of Works visited Ilorin, with no less than 72 vehicles. Such a convoy size put the number of vehicles required for the visit of the Honorable Minister of Power to the Kainji Dam at no less than 73. For sure.
Now that we know the limitations that the honorable ministers have to deal with, we begin to appreciate the modesty involved with an entourage of 74 vehicles only. Everybody, around and above, north and south, clearly understands that the Honorable Minister of Power cannot allow himself a convoy shorter than the convoy of the Minister of Works. To add to it, the Minister of Works is Hausa and is visiting a Yoruba town, where the Honorable Minister of Power is himself is a Yoruba. There should be no confusion here.
Anyway, the convoy is led by six noisy motorcycles, and behind them, several cars with soldiers honking their horns with a chakalaka. The chakalaka are sirens that make a terrible noise that provide the necessary ambiance, which is to terrify the entire population of this area. It scares the citizens in the area and is so loud that it can bring the dead back to life. If by any chance someone comes back to life, he would die on the spot again out of fear.
Clearly, Eng. Idogbo is thoroughly excited about the unfolding event and the vast honor bestowed on him and with the attention he is receiving. The dignitaries, together with Eng. Idogbo, are all gathered around the Honorable Minister's car, greeting him with long bows, a universal sign of respect. Eng. Idogbo is actually prostrating on the ground, vocalizing welcome statements generously, telling the Honorable Minister how happy he is to see him.
Away from the noise, hustle and bustle, and dust, a group of about 50 dignitaries, chiefs, and others emerge with Eng. Idogbo leading the gang, toward the Kainji Dam's Control Rooms.
No Italians are to be seen on site. Idogbo updates them on the event and explains to them that the event is an internal Nigerian political matter, and there is nothing that makes the Italians more resentful than getting involved somehow in Nigerian politics, or even getting involved in Italian politics, for that matter.
Idogbo is undoubtedly XXXL size and he safely leads the honorable minister’s entourage and associates around with complete confidence. He waves his hands up, down, left to right, all to enhance the drama of what he is saying. The Idogbo's show must be perfect.
This time he can't screw it up. He must successfully utilize this "once in a lifetime" opportunity. This is a life-changing crack. If he manages to manipulate the honorable minister, he shall possess immense power.
It is an honor to sit in the chair of the electricity “ruler,” who is in charge of allotting the electricity of the Kainji Dam to different areas of the country, based on his sole educated judgment. This is an epic dream for someone in the class of Idogbo.
At this point, electricity production and supply in Nigeria is far below demand, making Nigeria an important client for generator manufacturers. Because there is not enough electricity in Nigeria for all those who require it, the situation is that a certain area receives electricity for two hours a day and another area for four hours a day, and there are areas that do not receive electricity at all. Idogbo dreams of controlling this electrical switch.
One must understand that the person in charge of the Schalter (switch), decides which region and villages get power and how many hours a day. He faces no argument whatsoever from anyone about any issue until he is removed from that post. Such a position of power provides a great deal of respect from citizens all over. All the citizens will greet him with very deep and lengthy bows, and some may kiss his shoes enthusiastically as a matter of total respect. Most shall laugh loudly at the driest joke that the Chief Electricity Officer might produce. Representatives from all the villages and towns shall make sure that the Chief Electricity Officer, which Eng. Idogbo one day dreams of becoming, shall be very, very, very happy so that in return he shall provide their villages with electrical power. Of course, it is at the expense of the others because there is not enough energy for everyone.
Such a position attracts gifts and plenty of Naira and Dollars, plus discovering many new good friends and relatives. Village representatives come up with creative marketing tactics. Sometimes, they send to the Chief Electricity Officer one or two goats, corn and casava tubers, maybe some pineapples and mango, all to please him. If that doesn't work, they might send him a young beauty who will persuade him with some simple tactics to provide electrical power to her village. She will do this no matter how since tomorrow, there is an important event in the village. Of course, there is always an important event in the village. Electricity is always required.
Idogbo is very familiar with this traditional system, and that is why he is so eager to see the Italians return to Italy. Most importantly, the Honorable Minister must decide that the Italians will return to Italy.
All these thoughts run through Idogbo's mind as he leads the Honorable Minister with the chiefs toward the Kainji Dam's Control Room. He knows that this is his chance for glory. He must demonstrate complete control of the control panels in front of the Honorable Minister. He must operate them blindly and easily, as precisely as the Honorable Minster's secretary taps the keys on the typewriter. Nothing less.
So, the Honorable Minister shall have no doubts about Idogbo's capability to control the Kainji Dam's panels and buttons. He can't afford to fail. If he looks at the panels, the Honorable Minister can suspect that Idogbo is not entirely familiar with the buttons.
The moment arrives. Eng. Idogbo approaches the control panels with an extra flair, his eyes on the Honorable Minister, and his fingers push the control’s buttons. He is swift, fingers moving here and there, off and on, with tremendous confidence and a big smile. He explains to the Honorable Minister how the Kainji Dam works. He describes the different buttons and lights to the Honorable Minister.
He speaks up and down, left and right, making sure that no one around understands what he is saying. The Honorable Minister shakes his head and says “Yes. Good. Okay.” He nods his head, which is a sign that the Honorable Minister seems to be listening to Idogbo, which is in any case an extremely rare phenomenon because, on a normal basis, the Honorable Minister does not tend to listen to anyone, especially not when someone is trying to explain something to him. Particularly not someone like Idogbo.
Idogbo demonstrates his incredible control of the panels to the Honorable Minister. He looks at the Honorable Minister while he presses a button. Then again as he presses another button, so proud of his engineering ability.
The Honorable Minister looks around to see if the others are also admiring Idogbo's ability to push buttons when suddenly, a sharp, long, strong beep is heard, followed by a horrible bang, followed by an earthquake. Everything is shaking up and down, left and right. Yes. The entourage and dignitaries flee in all directions, terrified. Chiefs fall down in panic. They pray to all available gods with their last wishes. The minister's bodyguards pull out their guns and pistols, ready to shoot the spirits.
Idogbo opened the dam. A massive wave of water explodes through the dam and washes away everything that stands in its way. Sixty villages and small towns were washed away or submerged under the mud without a trace. No one really knows how many good people with wives and children were buried under Idigbo's mud. And who counts anyway?!
Eng. Idogbo tells the Honorable Minister that he has no doubt that the Italian put the wrong button there. “Ah-Ah … these Italians.”
And that's the end of the story.
Except, of course, that a few weeks later, after he recovers from the horrific experience in Kainji, the Honorable Minister decided to send the Italians back to Italy. He stated that he had two reasons. The first reason is that Idogbo told him that the Italians installed the wrong button on that panel. The second reason is that these Italians came from Italy, and it is only reasonable to assume that they would prefer to return to Italy.
The Honorable Minister knows very well that the Idogbo's story about the wrong button is isokuso (nonsense in Yoruba). However, Idogbo promised the Honorable Minister that if he sent the Italians back to Italy, or to any other place for that matter, then Idogbo would make sure that the Honorable Minister's village would receive electricity every day for at least ten hours.
Plus, he promised the Minister that the village chief would not have to send to Idogbo two goats, corn, pineapples, or cassava tubers, and in any case, the village would also not have to send a beautiful girl to explain to Idogbo in simple terms the importance of electricity to the village.